there was a day specifically dedicated to telling fairy tales. Today is that day…
Tell A Fairy Tale Day!
Never heard of it before? Well, you can read more about it here. The stories can cover everything from Grimm to urban legends.
Scottish legends, myths, and mystery are found in A Shadow in the Past, so what better time to celebrate it?
Even the cover exudes fairytale mystery. Once upon a time…
Nineteen-year-old Sarah Shand finds herself thrust back into the past. There she struggles to keep her real identity from a society that finds her comments and ideas strange and her speech and actions forward, unlike Victorian women. When Sarah verbally confronts confining social practices, including arranged marriages, powerful enemies commit her to a lunatic asylum. After falling in love with the handsome Laird of Weetshill, Robert Robertson, she must decide whether to find her way back to her own time or to remain in the past with him.
If you have a favourite fairy tale, leave a comment telling which one it is.
Well, in Scotland and England it is. And since my heart belongs to Scotland, and I have family and friends in both countries, need I say more?
Okay, so in keeping with the day, here’s my story…
Blurb:
Nineteen-year-old Sarah Shand finds herself thrust back into the past. There she struggles to keep her real identity from a society that finds her comments and ideas strange and her speech and actions forward, unlike Victorian women. When Sarah verbally confronts confining social practices, including arranged marriages; powerful enemies commit her to a lunatic asylum. After falling in love with the handsome Laird of Weetshill, Robert Robertson, she must decide whether to find her way back to her own time or to remain in the past with him.
Now isn’t that a great story? I think so, but then I’m biased.
~~~~~~~~~~
You can buy A Shadow from the Past in print or ebook from:
Novels too long for your liking? How about a collection of short stories then?
Blurb:
The Consequences Collection is an eclectic compilation of twelve stories ranging from non-fiction through creative non-fiction to pure fiction, in prose and poetry.
The story of a Scottish Home Child is based on fact and told from the child’s point of view; The Mystery Woman of Kinettles is a non-fiction article on the appearance and subsequent disappearance of a woman’s body near the Wellington County House of Industry (Poor House) in 1879 Southwestern Ontario.
Some of these stories are lighter than others, and some might even beg you to leave the lights on.
And for the younger folks who love a good story, how about one for Christmas?
Blurb:
For Tim Frost, Christmas 2011 is a washout. No Santa. No presents. Nothing. His father lost his job when the mill closed and now the family is on the verge of losing their home.
A chance encounter with Nick Kringle, a modern-day Santa Claus, teaches Tim that the greatest gift you can receive is the gift of giving.
Tim’s Magic Christmas is available in paperback from the author, or for the kindle at amazon.com.
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Checked out of the hotel, we were in Terminal 2 before the Air Transat counter even opened. Flying Option Plus gave us priority check-in, boarding and luggage handling so we would be looked after before the minions. And speaking of minions, one of them (and his wife) stood where the line would begin until they were told to go sit down because it would be another half an hour or so before check-in would be open. So what did they do then? They left their luggage carts (hers with all the luggage – his with his golf clubs only) behind saving their places so that they would be at the head of the queue. That didn’t last long. Someone came along and told them if they didn’t move the bags, they would be considered unattended luggage and destroyed. And wouldn’t you know, they moved the bags… drat.
One thing I’d not seen in the airport was a clock. Neither one of us wears a watch. Both my phones (unlocked iPhone and Blackberry) were in our soon-to-be checked in large bags, and hubby’s Blackberry was turned off because it needed to be charged at the first opportunity.
There was a girl at the Air Transat information desk so he walked over there to find out what time it was. While there, he asked if there were any seats remaining in Club Class. It was supposed to be a surprise but since I had the tickets and our passports in my bought-in-Edinburgh handbag, the surprise was no more. Rather than leave our stuff unattended, I loaded up and wheeled our large bags over. Thankfully, it wasn’t far.
Two seats were left in Club but they weren’t together. But with only six seats up there, we wouldn’t be far apart. Upgrade paid for (this morning hubby’s MasterCard wouldn’t work – mine hadn’t worked the entire trip) on a different credit card, the young lady from here walked over to check-in with us. And we did get two seats together!
Checked in, and through security, we stopped at Beardmore for breakfast. We’ve eaten here in the past and it’s good food and good value for the money.
When we reached the departure lounge at gate 29, there were electrical outlets on the wall by the end of the row of seats. Adapter pulled out of the CPAP machine bag, charger cable out of hubby’s computer backpack, his Blackberry was plugged in. It wouldn’t get a full charge but at least it would have enough to be able to phone/text my cousin when we landed and when we got to the post outside where she would meet us.
I took a few pictures of planes taking off through the window directly in front of our seats before hubby took the camera and said ‘pretend you’re sad’. I didn’t have to pretend. I was but pulled a face and he snapped the picture.
Me pulling an exaggerated sad face in the terminal because we were leaving
An Air Transat plane landed and we assumed it was ours. I followed it to the other side of the departure lounge and got photos of it approaching the gate.
Our plane taxiing after landingOur plane approaching the gate
We had decided to leave the Blackberry charging for as long as possible – even if it meant carrying it, cable and adapter plug in hand when we were called to board.
Gradually, the lounge filled up and Mr and Mrs Minion arrived. When the call was made to board, they rushed over even though at that point it was only people travelling with young children under the age of 5 or people who needed assistance. Club and Option Plus were next. Our seats were in the front row of Club Class between the two aisles of the plane.
The look on Mr Minion’s face was priceless when he and the missus boarded. We were long since seated and were sipping champagne when they finally got on.
Our flight director was wonderful. She teased hubby (after telling him he couldn’t use his headphones until we were in the air but he could still hold my hand). He’s not a good flyer.
Once everyone was seated, the safety video started, we taxied out to the runway for takeoff. Well, that was the plan. We accelerated and were just about the point of leaving the ground when the pilot braked hard and put the engines in reverse to stop us. Even though I was firmly strapped into my seat belt, I felt myself slide forward in the seat so put my foot against the bulkhead to keep from going any further forward.
The pilot came on the intercom and told us a warning light had gone off so he aborted the takeoff. We sat on a taxi way while fire engines rushed out to where we sat. We were informed this was standard procedure and we weren’t on fire but they had to check the landing gear and the brakes before they’d let us return to a gate.
The guy who had a window seat on the left side of the plane pulled his phone out and took pictures of the fire engine parked out there.
I turned hubby’s phone back on and texted my cousin telling her our flight was delayed but not the reason behind it and that we would check back with them when we could before turning the phone back off. I didn’t want her to worry needlessly and I didn’t want to run out the bit of charge we’d given the battery.
When we got back to the gate, the flight crew opened the doors on the plane to let in fresh air and to cool things down a bit then brought around water and plastic glasses for anyone who wanted it. Trying to make light of the situation, all I could think of saying was “Honey, I’m home!” and so I did.
One of the employees who we’d met at check-in but wasn’t one of our flight crew boarded during the repairs. Hubby had teased her earlier about being the ‘boss’ because she was at a counter by herself. He asked her if this was the same plane we had flown over on back on 11th September. She wouldn’t say yay or nay, but did say she’d tell him the next time we came over.
About an hour later, we were ready to try the takeoff again. This time it was without incident. The plane landed just before 5:00 pm and by 5:45, we had cleared customs got our bags off the carousel and were waiting by post 42. I don’t think anyone from our flight was pulled into secondary. I figure they thought we were all too traumatized by the aborted takeoff. I know the guy in the baggage hall was freaked out when we told him how our flight started.
After a long and eventful day, we finally arrived home at 10:30 and didn’t even bother to unpack. De-briefed with our son who had looked after the house and dog while we were gone, texted my cousin to say we had arrived safely, spent some time paying attention to the dog before going to bed.
And poor me has to get up to go to work tomorrow morning!
This was our last ‘full’ day in Scotland. The beautiful weather was a direct contrast to how we were feeling. The only thing we knew this morning is that we didn’t want to go to the hotel via the A74(M).
Along the A76 north of Thornhill
When we were stopped to take photos near Mennock, we decided that we had time to go visit our friends who live at Quarriers Village.
Along the A76 between Mennock and SanquharAlong the A76 between Mennock and Sanquhar
Lucky us, we ended up behind a farm tractor at Lochwinnoch and were stuck behind him the rest of the way to the village. Well, not quite all of the way. We were close enough that the bell tower on the church was visible so the first road to the right, I turned down it. Anything to get away from the tractor.
From this road, we got an excellent view of the three former consumption sanatoria buildings – now converted to luxury flats and surrounded with new housing. Unfortunately, there wasn’t an opportunity to pull over and take photos. But, you can see what we saw from this image from google street views.
We had a lovely surprise visit with our friends. They had things to do later that afternoon so we didn’t get to stay long but it was still great to see them – even for just a short time.
Things in the village have changed considerably since our last visit there. Double yellow lines and speed bumps (I believe they’re called ramps) on the streets. The bridge over the Gotter Water has finally been repaired (gone is the Bailey bridge and traffic lights at either end that had been there for years). The church where we renewed our vows in 2000 for our 25th wedding anniversary has also been converted to flats. The peaceful atmosphere that once enveloped the village is no longer there which is sad.
We said our goodbyes and promised that next time we would ‘warn’ them ahead of our impending visit so they could run off and hide… LOL!
Since we had papers and bags and such loose on the floor in the back seat of the car, we stopped in Bridge of Weir and gathered everything up into a couple of bags, put my cameras back in their case so when we returned the rental car, we wouldn’t have to do it all then.
The only confusion we had when we returned the car, was we were never given an updated rental agreement. We still had the original one for the Ford Focus we were supposed to have. According to the guy there, we shouldn’t have had to pay the extra to upgrade to the larger Vauxhall Astra Estate because it was their idea to give us a bigger vehicle.
We always get the CDW (collision damage waiver) so once we gave him the rental agreement, we didn’t have to stick around. We were free to leave – okay after the aforementioned confusion was cleared up. Hubby got a cart and we loaded our bags onto it and trundled through the carpark and to the hotel.
Because of the convenience of dropping our rented vehicle off and the proximity of the hotel to the airport, we always spend our last night here. In the past, our flights left early in the morning so it was nice to only have to ‘stagger’ across five lanes of traffic to get into the airport terminal.
Our room at the Holiday Inn, Glasgow AirportOur room at the Holiday Inn, Glasgow Airport
As has become habit over the years, the first order of business once we’re settled (and me taking pictures), we rearrange the suitcases so that they’re as close to equal weight as we can get and preferably below the limit. We’d booked Option Plus so had an extra 10 kg weight allowance per bag which is a good thing since both were over the 20 kg limit.
Once that chore was completed, we went for a walk through the airport and around the ‘block’ before returning to the hotel where we had supper and drinks in the bar before going back to our room.
Since my leg gave me grief yesterday and wouldn’t allow me to walk all the way to the Barnsley Cemetery and back to the hotel, we headed straight here after breakfast. The weather cooperated and although the sun was in the wrong place for some of the photos, the architecture here was beautiful.
I could have spent a lot more time prowling around through here but I do have plenty of photos to be able to draw from (only a sample are here on the blog) when it comes time to sit down and write. We were booked in at Hutton Lodge near Dumfries that night so we had to get a move on.
The going was slow for a time because of the roadworks on the M1 (construction season here, too) but traffic still flowed smoothly. The motorways are great when you need to get from point A to point B in the shortest amount of time, but we much prefer the slower pace of the secondary roads.
The further away from Barnsley we got, the more overcast it became.
The Pennines along the A66
As we approached the junction with the M6 motorway at Penrith, the police were at the scene of an accident. A guy had dumped his motorcycle and slid under the guardrail – his bike still wedged there. He was on a stretcher and two of the emergency responders held a blanket up blocking the view of the passersby. I figured he was dead and if not then, very soon.
Onto the M6 we went stopping at the Gretna Gateway Outlet Village – not to shop but to find a cashpoint because we needed cash and to use the toilets (what else is new?).
Before we got back on the road, hubby put the postcode for Hutton Lodge into Satnav Sally. The directions brought us in the back way (less traffic – yay!) but at an impossible angle to pull in the driveway to Hutton Lodge. At least we knew where it was so we could come back from the opposite direction and be able to pull in easily.
Now that we knew where our B&B was located, we could set out to explore. I had heard of Morton Castle from a friend who used to live in the area. It’s a Historic Scotland property so it was easy to find in the HS maps on our satnav. Driving there was a different story.
It would be really easy to miss the castle as it’s down below the hill. But we found it. Unfortunately, the ground was wet and muddy from previous rains.
near Morton CastleMorton CastleDoor in Morton Castle
The ‘club’ shaped window in the door was too high for me to be able to look out it to get my picture so I just held the camera up in the opening and clicked, having no idea what I would get. The photo below is the result of my efforts. Not bad, eh?
Scene shot from the door in Morton CastleLocation of the door from the outside of Morton CastleThe Great Hall at Morton Castle
It was late enough now that we could return to Hutton Lodge and check in. The only traffic we saw on this road was a family with their dog, and a young girl on a horse. The horse was skittish so rather than spook it, I pulled over as far as I could and shut the car off until after they passed.
When we arrived at Hutton Lodge, our host helped us bring our luggage in and made us a reservation for supper at the Nith Hotel in Glencaple.
Our room at Hutton LodgeOur room at Hutton LodgeOur room at Hutton Lodge
Once we were settled and I had wi-fi (had to purchase a BT Wi-Fi pass), I googled the accident we had seen earlier. The guy wasn’t dead after all, but had been airlifted to hospital in serious condition.
Our dinner reservations were for 7:30 but we knew if we stayed in our room much longer, we’d fall asleep so we took the chance that we could eat sooner than later and drove to the Nith Hotel.
replica stones in the garden at Hutton LodgeHutton Lodge
The only problem with leaving at this time of day, the sun was directly in my eyes all the way across the Glencaple Road. Thinking that our table wouldn’t be ready yet as we were about an hour early and the hotel was busy, after parking the car we took in the view and I got a few photos.
Sun setting at Glencaple
It was busy in the restaurant but our table was ready. We were in the corner by the windows so we could look out over the Solway Firth. The meal was excellent and great value. Hubby had the gammon steak and I had seafood spaghetti.
Although not completely dark when we came out of the restaurant, the light was changing rapidly. This photo turned out brighter than it actually was.
Sunset at Glencaple
By the time we got into the car and turned around to go back to the B&B it was pitch black – and even worse out on the narrow with passing places and no street lights. Some numptie behind me rode my back bumper making it almost impossible for me to see because of the shadow cast by our car in his headlights. First passing place I came to, I pulled in and let him go.
Even on high beams, the headlights weren’t that great. When we got back to Hutton Lodge, I snapped a quick photo of the moon before we rent up to our room and I had a couple of glasses of wine leftover from when we were in Kennethmont.
Today we were venturing down into England. It made no sense when I was this close to the places I needed for book trailer photos not to go and get them. This particular project is still very much in the planning stages, although I do have parts of it written. But anyway, I digress.
Having that third cup of coffee over breakfast came back to haunt me. We headed for Jedburgh where we knew they had public loos that were spotless – even if you did have to pay to pee. That was a minor detail.
Since today’s journey was going to be over three hours (almost four), there wasn’t a lot of time to dally for photo ops, although we did stop at the Scotland/England border.
Scenery near the Scottish borderScenery just south of the Scottish borderDon imitating a St Andrews Cross at the Scotland borderMe trying to shrink into the stone so I didn’t have to leave ScotlandScenery in Northern England
We hit roadworks on the A1(M) where the motorway is being extended but at least the traffic still moved through here albeit at 50 mph rather than the normal 70 mph. But after that things went to hell in a handcart. Traffic came to a complete stop for quite a while as we approached the interchange with the M62 motorway. And it was at the early stages of rush hour. It was almost like being in Toronto except there weren’t as many lanes of traffic and we were on the opposite side of the road.
We eventually made it to our hotel and got checked in. As with every place we’ve stayed, the first thing we do is scope out where the outlets are so that hubby can plug in his CPAP machine. The first place we ran into an issue was Dunbar where the outlets were on the opposite side of the room but it wasn’t a problem because the room was small enough that the cord and power supply reached. This time, the room was enormous! No way it would reach. So we went back down to reception and asked if they had an extension cord. The girl at the desk came up with a power bar but even it was going to be iffy so she hunted up another one – this one with a longer cord on it. We took both and piggy-backed them together and plugged in the machine. Crisis averted.
Our room at the Premier Inn, Barnsley (Dearne Valley)Our room at the Premier Inn, Barnsley (Dearne Valley)Our room at the Premier Inn, Barnsley (Dearne Valley)
The hotel did have free wi-fi but you could only connect one device. With each of us having a laptop and an iPad and one Blackberry (data had been shut down by Rogers because of the roaming charges incurred – oops) so we paid the £5.00 to be able to connect with more than one. Even if you only wanted to connect two devices, it was the same price.
Wi-fi looked after, CPAP machine plugged in and a reservation made in the Breyers Fayre Restaurant for our supper, we went out for a walk.
The plan was to walk to the Barnsley Cemetery… you notice I said “the plan”.
My left leg (the one I tore the muscle in last year before our trip to Paris) was aching like crazy and I couldn’t do much more so we turned back about a third of the way there and went back to the hotel.
We’d eaten in a Brewers Fayre when we stayed in Norwich in 2005 so figured we would enjoy this experience, too. Our table was ready when we arrived. You had to place your food and drink order at the bar and pay for it in advance! That wouldn’t have been quite so bad but we ordered the special 2 for £10.99 Chicken Tikka Masala and the order went through as a single for £8.99. It’s a good thing I noticed it. Hubby went back to the bar with the receipt and the other menu and got it corrected and was referred to in a less than customer-friendly manner.
Other irritating facts – some people were having the debit/credit machine brought to their tables, others were waited on at their tables.
I’ll definitely stay in a Premier Inn again but not eat at a Brewers Fayre… at least not this one.
This morning we were off to Kelso but we had some unfinished business in this area. We had said after visiting Tantallon Castle in the rain if it was nice the day we were headed south, we would go there first since we had plenty of time to get to our final destination.
Everything looks better in the sunshine. We got rid of the rain but it was still blustery up at the castle.
approaching Tantallon CastleTantallon CastleStaircase inside Tantallon CastleBass Rock from Tantallon CastleDovecot at Tantallon Castle and North Berwick Law in the background
I’m really glad we did go back to Tantallon because had we not, we would have missed the opportunity to see Hailes Castle. It was signposted as straight ahead where we turned right to go to Tantallon.
After our repeat visit here, hubby found Hailes Castle the Historic Scotland satnav maps that he downloaded to our Garmin before we left home and off we went.
Hailes CastleHailes Castle
There’s a face in this wall – intentionally or otherwise – the way the stones are strategically missing. Two eyes, a nose and a lopsided mouth.
Hailes Castle
After our visit to Hailes Castle, we set out for the village of Gordon and Greenknowe Tower.
Greenknowe TowerYett (iron gate) at Greenknowe TowerOne of the fireplaces in Greenknowe TowerMe showing the massive size of the fireplace at Greenknowe TowerAt the top of Greenknowe Tower
We weren’t far from Dryburgh Abbey so headed there (another bathroom break was needed). On the way, we passed Scott’s View and made an out loud mental note that we would stop there on our way back.
While in the shop at the abbey, I bought a guidebook for Smailholm Tower because I wasn’t sure if I’d be able to get one when we got there. Chatting with the man who was working, he asked where we were from. He went on to say that there were two girls there at the moment who were also from Ontario. They came back in before we went on out into the grounds so had a chance to say hi to fellow Canadians.
Sir Walter Scott’s grave at Dryburgh Abbey
During our time at the abbey, the light had changed significantly and the Eildon Hills weren’t lit as they had been when we passed by the first time. Still, it was a dramatic view and easy to see why Sir Walter Scott was so enchanted with it.
Scott’s View
If I said getting to Smailholm Tower was an adventure, it would be an understatement. The single track roads were okay. I don’t mind driving on them. But you come to a farm and have to drive through the farmyard and out onto a gravel track to go the rest of the way to the carpark at the bottom of the hill. At least, there was a sign on the fence post guiding us beyond the barns and other outbuildings.
After you navigate through the farm to the car park, you still have to hike up a hill to get to this castle. The sign at the bottom indicated two paths – the easy one and the more difficult one. We took what was labelled as the easy one. It wasn’t as steep as the hill to Dunideer which we’ve done in the past, but with the wind, it might as well have been. We thought it was blustery at Tantallon in the morning… it was nothing compared to here!
The entrance to the castle is on the side opposite the gravel track. When we got to this point, there were a few gusts of wind that almost blew me off my feet.
Me at the gate at Smailholm TowerSmailholm Tower
We toured the three floors of displays, a lot related to Sir Walter Scott, and despite the high winds, it wasn’t considered windy enough to not allow access to the ramparts on either side of the earth roof. It did, however, make it difficult to open or close the door depending on what side you were standing on.
View from one of the ramparts at Smailholm TowerView from one of the ramparts at Smailholm Tower (our car in the middle of the carpark below)Earth roof from one of the ramparts at Smailholm Tower
When we left, we chose the ‘difficult’ path to return to the car. It was far easier to traverse than the one we ascended.
The rest of the drive to Kelso was uneventful. We came in a slightly different way than we did in 2013 but once I got close to the square, I didn’t need the satnav anymore. I knew exactly where I was going.
This is the same room we stayed in before at Duncan House. The only difference was the bed now had a wooden headboard and footboard and the wall colour changed.
Our room at Duncan HouseOur room at Duncan HouseOur room at Duncan House
On our way to abbey it started to rain and of course, we left our umbrellas back at our room. We were sorely disappointed that The Empress of India had closed since our last visit to Kelso so, not knowing the area well, were at a loss as to where to go for supper.
I approached a woman in front of Glendale Paints and asked if she could recommend a good place for a meal. I mean who better to ask than a local? She ushered us into the store out of the rain and suggested if we wanted a good meal at a good price we go to The Waggon Inn and told us how to get there from where we were at that moment.
We thanked her and continued to the abbey which was closed when we were here in 2013 (arrived too late). This time we were able to get inside the gate and get some good photos from there despite the rain.
Kelso AbbeyKelso Abbey
By the time we got to The Waggon Inn for our meal, the rain had stopped.
The Waggon Inn where we had our supper
It’s hard to see from this angle looking up the driveway, but our room was the first dormer at the closest end of the house and our en-suite bathroom was the middle dormer.
Duncan House
From this angle you can see the middle dormer much better and barely see the one at the far end of the house.
Duncan House
We’ve been to Kelso twice but have never managed to get any closer to Floors Castle than Duncan House. We’ll have to rectify that.
Floors Castle from our room at Duncan HouseFloors Castle illuminated at dusk from our room at Duncan House
The next time we come to Kelso and stay at Duncan House, we’ll spend more than one night and get to Floors Castle and visit/re-visit some of the Historic Scotland properties that are nearby.
Tomorrow… shh… don’t tell anyone, we’re heading south of the border to Barnsley. Long story, but for now I’ll just say it’s for research for another novel I’m working on.
Today we’re off to Edinburgh. Return train fare from Dunbar to Edinburgh, Waverly was £24.40 well worth every pence when it meant not driving in the city or trying to find parking. And I had haggis with my bacon and eggs with my breakfast!
Unlike Aberdeen and Dundee where we had taken the train earlier in our vacation, we didn’t have to put our ticket into the machine to get through the turnstile to exit the station.
The first order of business was for me to find a new purse. My black, cross-body bag wasn’t going to be big enough to take some things home in (iPad, paperback, etc) rather than put them in the checked bags and they were perfectly acceptable to take in carry-on.
Primark, H&M, Marks & Spencer, BHS, we hit them all along Princes Street. I had seen a few girls carrying purses that I really liked when we were in Dundee – black suede, fringed – but couldn’t find any. However, I did find one that I instantly fell in love with at Debehams.
My purse
Isn’t it gorgeous? I love it! And it’s got room for all the stuff I need to carry in it… and then some. The girl on cash took the tags off it so I could carry it even though it was empty. It made no sense to get a back to carry a ‘handbag’ in. It came with a black cloth bag large enough to put the suede beauty in and some air-filled pillows filled up the rest of the space so it looked like I was carrying a normal purse.
As we were approaching the crosswalk to Princes Gardens, one of the guys trying to sign up new customers outside the Vodaphone store approached saying he could get us a good deal on our monthly mobile phone bill. His face dropped when we said we were from Canada. Mind you, after the experience with the EE sim and top-up card, Vodaphone is looking better all the time.
Edinburgh CastleOne of the trams on Princes StreetAssembly Hall
Where does a writer go in Edinburgh? This writer went to the Writers’ Museum.
The Writers’ MuseumThe Writers’ Museum signCarving over the door at the Writers’ Museum
Works by and personal effects that belonged to Robert Burns, Robert Louis Stevenson and Sir Walter Scott are all on display – each with a full floor of the building dedicated to them.
St Giles CathedralEdinburgh City ChambersThe Netherbow WellheadA different twist on The Fox and The Hare on the Royal MileThe TolboothThe Cowgate from South Bridge
Someone had a sense of humour at one time mounting the back end of a cow onto one of the buildings on the street. But then the street is called The Cowgate. Can we say “Udderly hilarious?”
The Cowgate from South Bridge
Another place we visited was the Royal Oak Pub. I’m positive I’d seen on a website that it was a famous Edinburgh author’s local. I got the wrong end of the stick but now that I know, I’ll be prepared for next time. 🙂
No authors other than me (well, at least well-known that I would recognize), but some great characters and a pub filled with charm.
The Royal Oak Pub
After a pint and a pee we walked to Grayfriars Kirkyard.
Monument of Greyfriars Bobby in Greyfriars KirkyardMonument of John Gray – Greyfriars Bobby’s master in Greyfriars Kirkyard
If these monuments look like they’re attached to the houses, you’d be right… they are! Well, if your house backs onto a graveyard, at least those neighbours are quiet.
Monuments in Greyfriars KirkyardStatue of Grayfriars Bobby on George IV Bridge
I love this bus! The sign on the front shows “Holyrood Herse, St Andrew Square, and National Ghoulery”. The one on the back shows “Calton Hell, George Scare, and Deadinburgh Castle”. I think this is something to check out for future trips to Edinburgh.
The Ghost Bus Tours bus
By now, we were getting hungry. According to the Edinburgh map we picked up at or near the Writers’ Museum, there was an Indian Restaurant on Rose Street. Since we both like Indian, it was perfect. We made sure we started our trek on Rose Street close enough to Waverly Station so we could walk by Robertsons on the way for our curry.
Robertsons on Rose Street
There aren’t a lot of trains that stop in Dunbar so we didn’t want to be stuck waiting until late to get a train, but we had purchased ‘cheap same day return’ tickets which normally restricts you from riding the train at rush hour hence eating a bit earlier than we normally would.
Well wouldn’t you know. The Indian restaurant was closed! They didn’t open until later. After the ‘rented’ ale at the Royal Oak, we both needed a loo – badly. Thankfully, TGI Fridays was across the street so we legged it there for a meal… and the toilet.
We must have asked half a dozen ScotRail employees what the earliest train was we could get back to Dunbar with the tickets we had. Finally, we got to the right employees and as luck would have it, we could get the next one. Because there aren’t many trains that stop in Dunbar, the rush hour restriction is lifted and you can travel on any train which is good to know for future train travels.
Waiting for our train at Waverly Station to return to Dunbar
We’re not sure what the delay was, but when we got close to Dunbar the train stopped and we waited for about fifteen minutes before moving again. When we did get to our stop, it seemed that everyone else on the train (well at least one carriage) got off. Obviously, a lot of people commute to Edinburgh for work.
While we were disappointed to be leaving Broughty Ferry, we were excited to be moving on to our next destination. At least this morning the sun was shining. We had hoped to be after the rush hour but no such luck. I think we were smack in the middle of it.
After being held up at a stop for petrol (the place was a zoo) because the person at the pumps ahead of us had left her car there (she was already nowhere to be seen when we pulled up) and we waited for ages for her to return and get a less than sincere ‘sorry’. But at least she pulled her car away from the pumps before going back in to get whatever else it was she was after.
Finally, we were out of heavy traffic and onto single carriageways. The scenery through here was pretty but unfortunately, the laybys with the best views were filled with lorries and and other cars already. I finally did find one but had to walk back a bit because the trees blocked the view.
Scenery near Powmill
After getting some photographs, we moved on again but not far. We both thought the boot hadn’t closed properly so at the first opportunity, we pulled into a carpark for a church. And never being one to pass up the opportunity to wander through a graveyard, we took a brief time out for a look. I went around by the front of the church (more photo ops that direction) and Don had a look around the back.
Blairingone ChurchBlairingone ChurchyardOur car at the Blairingone Church
When we reached the area near our destination, “Satnav Sally” turned us in to the carpark at the Falkirk Football Stadium. Come to find out, it was overflow parking for The Kelpies. Don’t think that would happen if there was a match taking place.
We got back onto the road and the turn we wanted was at the next set of traffic lights. It cost £2.00 to park which was more than reasonable because you could spend the entire day there. If you wanted to take the tour inside one of the two giant Clydesdale heads, there was an additional fee but we only wanted to see them from the outside.
The Kelpies
We did look inside the one that was used for the tours (head down) and it looked like you stayed on the ground level. There were no stairs visible from our vantage point. Can you imagine being able to climb up and look out one of the eyes?
I wanted to stop at two castles on the way to our hotel – The Royal Mackintosh – in Dunbar so we had to get a move on.
The further away from the kelpies we got, the cloudier and gloomier it became and before we reached the first of the two castles I wanted to visit (Dirleton), it was raining. Not super hard but hard enough to be miserable and have to keep the cameras under cover.
These two trees in the gardens at the castle remind me of the ones in the Haunted Forest in The Wizard of Oz. What do you think? They’re definitely spooky looking. And maybe being there on an overcast, rainy day made them look even spookier.
Spooky trees in the gardens at Dirleton Castle
Coming in the direction we did from the gardens, this was the entrance to the castle we took. By the time we reached the top step, my knees were burning but I didn’t let it stop me from enjoying the views in and around the castle – upstairs and downstairs.
The back entrance to Dirleton Castle – the way we enteredMain entrance to Dirleton Castle
I love the stone seats in the window alcoves of this room. Even on a cool, damp day, this room didn’t feel it. But then that could have been the sweat we’d worked up with all the step climbing and walking.
The De Vaux Castle – one of the constructions at Dirleton Castle
This section of the castle was the Haliburton’s construction. The intricate stone buffet was in the end wall of the Great Hall.
The stone buffet at Dirleton Castle where the family silver was displayed
North Berwick Law is a massive mound visible from almost everywhere in the area because the ground is so flat… well except for it.
North Berwick Law from Direlton Castle
By the time we reached Tantallon Castle, it was raining harder and the wind had come up. There were times when I thought my umbrella and I were going to do our best Mary Poppins impression.
Approaching Tantallon CastleThe cliffs at Tantallon Castle
Bass Rock is home to a huge colony of gannets. From every vantage point looking out to see here at the castle, this formation is visible.
Bass Rock framed by the ruins of Tantallon Castle
Despite the rain, wind and slippery, wet stones we climbed up to the top and walked on the ramparts of the castle. Mind you, this would have been so much more pleasant on a sunny, dry and less windy day but, hey, it was all part of the experience.
On the ramparts of Tantallon Castle
And remember North Berwick Law? Well, here it is again… kind of like the Price Building in Quebec City.
North Berwick Law from the ramparts of Tantallon Castle
By now we really had to get a move on and to our hotel but we decided that on the day we left Dunbar for Kelso, if it was nice, we would come back to the castle and see it in a different light.
After checking in and getting our goods and chattels into our room, we walked down to the train station to get an idea how long a walk it was. I knew where it was from google maps and the hotel’s website said it was a short walk but a body still has to measure it themselves.
The Royal Mackintosh Hotel in DunbarOur room at the Royal MackintoshOur Room at The Royal MackintoshOur room at The Royal Mackintosh
When we returned from our timing of the train station walk, we had a meal in the hotel bar – a Bigger Mack. I swear the hamburg patty was two inches thick! OMG! It was delicious, juicy and cooked all the way through… but way too much. Should we have one of these on a future trip, we won’t each order one. We’ll order one and cut it in two and get an extra order of chips.
Now that we’d stuffed ourselves, we went upstairs got the cameras and went out for a walk along the high street then down to the water where we watched the tide come in before walking back up the hill to our hotel.
Dunbar High StreetStatue of naturalist John Muir, born in DunbarBy the sea at Dunbar
Other than when we first arrived in Scotland on 12th September, this was the first day we had rain – heavy rain. After breakfast, we grabbed our umbrellas and walked to Broughty Castle Museum which was closed for the day when we arrived here on the 19th from Kennethmont.
Looking towards the Tay Bridge and DundeeSwan finishing preening in the rain
There were a number of interesting artifacts and displays housed in the museum over the three floors that were open to the public and we were able to leave our dripping umbrellas downstairs inside the door to the castle.
Drawbridge at Broughty CastleDrawbridge counterweights inside the wall at Broughty Castle
After our tour we went for a walk along the Esplanade for a short distance before turning around and walking back to Fisher Street and eventually, our hotel room.
RNLI Elizabeth of Glamis Trent class lifeboatBroughty Ferry lifeboat station
I mean, there’s only so much you can do on a rainy day. Our original plan was to spend part of today with nearby family, but that fell through so we were left at odds as to what to do. We’d done the planes, trains and automobiles thing so decided to add bus to our modes of transport used and hopped one to where we could purchase a golf hat for the guy who administers hubby’s cancer treatments (after all, you have to keep him sweet so he’s good to you). I had only ever used a ‘transit’ bus once in Scotland and that was back in 1993 to go from the Guild Street station in Aberdeen out to the airport at Dyce. For that trip, I had to have the exact change.
This trip, shortly after we sat down, a ‘clippie’ was there to collect our fare. Exact fare wasn’t needed but no doubt appreciated. It cost £4.30 each way for both of us, which was very reasonable, we thought.
Our shopping trip completed, we caught the next bus back to Broughty Ferry. On the way, the rain started again and at one point, it teemed so hard and the windows steamed so much that we could hardly see. At least the driver could and he was the one who mattered.
When we returned to Broughty Ferry, the rain had stopped but it was still quite overcast. We got off the bus at the Post Office Bar stop and walked back in the direction of the railway station. I thought I had seen a bank with a cashpoint but I hadn’t. Looking down Gray Street, I spied the familiar Clydesdale Bank logo so we went there so we could get some cash. Of course, after we stopped here we saw all kinds of banks along Brook Street.
I had picked up a City Centre Walk brochure earlier at the museum so took a good look at it when we went back to our room. While we were there, it cleared up and the sun came back out. We picked up the cameras and out we went again – this time to capture images of some of the locations in the brochure.
Broughty Ferry LibraryThe lodge for the former Carbet CastleBroughty Ferry Railway StationTiled entrance at 329 Brook StreetThe Ship InnBarometer Cottage
As much as we both like old graveyards, we never did find this one, although towards the end of the day we got close. By now we knew that you had to get the key from the Ship Inn but we’d not seen this sign along the street before.
Sign for the Old Burial Ground in Broughty Ferry
There were other people milling about in the area and when an older woman came along and unlocked the high gate, we thought all our Christmases had come at once. Unfortunately, this only led to her garden but if you look in the Google street view below, you can see a stone wall in behind there and another one behind it. Sure as anything, that’s where the old burial ground is.
We had already determined that we would stay in Broughty Ferry again and at the same hotel. So between now and then, I’ll be doing some more digging and printing directions and other pertinent information for us to have with us. I’d say sending it to our phones, but that only works when you have data on your phone, or can find a wi-fi hotspot.
Broughty Ferry – we’ll be back!
My Scottish roots and writing by Melanie Robertson-King
